Only available in limited quantities, with the Cab Franc and Petit Verdot hailing from a distinct parcel with a singular expression called Vigna Lodovico. Bold, dusty tannins surround notes of graphite and textural plushness. The blackberries are ripe and marked by iron, cherry cedar, espresso bean, and lavender. The liquid’s delivery is luxurious across the palate.

Lodovico leads a set of impressive releases from Tenuta di Biserno. The estate’s top wine, it’s produced in select vintages from a small plot of vines (primarily cabernet franc) planted in 2002. The long, moderate growing season in 2013 yielded an intensely concentrated wine with flavors that range from brambly blue fruit to loamy soil, molten chocolate and savory charred meat. The wine feels broad-shouldered yet clad in a sable cape, its flavors densely packed and gripped by powerful tannins. It requires several days of air to reveal more detail, layers of black licorice, sage, rosemary and miso surging forward on a wave of vibrant acidity and reverberating long after the wine is gone.

Superripe, plush and complex, this nevertheless focuses on black currant, blackberry, Tuscan scrub, iron, tobacco and spice aromas and flavors. The tannins are muscular but not overbearing, yet the vibrant acidity provides energy and focus. Terrific length. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2035.