I have had a lot of great vintages of Dom Perignon, but I do not remember any as impressive as the 1996. Even richer than the brilliant 1990, the 1996 is still tightly wound, but reveals tremendous aromatic intensity, offering hints of bread dough, Wheat Thins, tropical fruits, and roasted hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, with crisp acidity buttressing the wines wealth of fruit and intensity, it comes across as extraordinarly zesty, well-delineated, and incredibly long on the palate. Moet-Chandon deserves considerable accolades for this prodigious example of Dom Perignon. Anticipated maturity: now-2020+.

The much-hyped 1996 vintage has proven less consistent than the original hype suggested. Pinot Noir didn’t have enough phenolic and aromatic ripeness (many were too excited by the 10g/l malic acidity and 10 degrees potential ABV combination to notice). A great vintage for Blanc de Blancs then, yet the winemaking team delivered a thrilling edition of this wine for 1996. A higher dosage and that lovely acidity gave birth to a rich, complex champagne with lovely freshness and fruit. The lime blossom and lemony toast of youth are beginning to fade a little as the wine strides into its final drinking window. Supremely balanced, with elegant aromas of coffee, toast with a peppering of walnut. Mouthwatering fruit and long angular finish.

This minerally. toasty wine has flavors of almonds and white stone fruits, and a long, finish. It is still young, and is just coming into great balance. Elegant and ethereal.