Very racy and tightly knit, this shows beautiful focus on the details, from the lacy texture to the vibrant acidity to the notes of cardamom and tea rose accenting finely meshed flavors of freshly ground coffee, honeycomb, kumquat, oyster shell and a hint of dried apricot.

This is a classic food Champagne, hugely rich, toasty, generous. Yes, there is acidity and minerality, but these individual factors are less important than the overall opulence of this intense wine. It is still amazingly young, fresh and vibrant, but also so powerful.